Veseys

IMPORTANT! UPON ARRIVAL

Dormant Bare-roots: We usually ship ornamental grass roots to you in the dormant state, that is: bare-roots, usually without leaves, in bags of loose peat moss. They may have some shoots beginning to grow. It is very important to plant these dormant perennials as soon as possible after you receive them. If it is absolutely necessary to store them for a short time before planting them, open the cartons and any plastic that is around the roots. If the roots appear dry, soak them for a few hours in warm water. Thereafter store in slightly moist peat moss in a very cold, butnot freezing location until you can plant. They can also be kept in pots of soil if planting will be delayed for more than two weeks.

Non-dormant in Pots: Some perennials will be shipped to you from our greenhouses. They will be in pots and may have actively growing green leaves. These plants should be immersed in water upon arrival to thoroughly soak the root ball. These non-dormant plants must be hardened off before planting outside. Keep in a cool, bright room, and place outside on mild days and gradually leave outside when it is cooler. After a week or so, or when nightime temperatures are above freezing, plant outside. If a severe dip in temperature is expected you may want to place straw or an old blanket over the green leaves to protect them from severe damage. Frost or cold will not permanently hurt the plant, but it may damage the new leaves and set growth back.

GENERAL PLANTING INFORMATION

Ornamental grasses are as beautiful as they are easy to grow. In addition to year-round visual appeal, they add a dimension of motion and sound to your garden. Plant them beside ponds, in perennial gardens, in groups together or as groundcovers along walkways, paths or steep banks.

Be sure to soak the root systems in warm water for a few hours before planting and water them well afterward. Plant the crown level with the soil surface. Never plant grasses too deep. Mulching is great to conserve moisture, especially during the first season, but keep mulch away from the crown.

Unless noted, most grasses like soil on the lean side. If you want to fertilize, use an organic fertilizer like worm castings, compost or manure. Excess nutrients can make grasses, especially tall ones, weak and floppy. Water regularly the first year until established. Afterwards most grasses are very drought tolerant.

Blue Oat Grass, Blue Fescue and Feather Reed Grass are cool-season grasses that will start growing and bloom earlier in the season. The rest (except the Sedges which are technically not grasses) are warm season grasses and start to grow later in the spring and bloom later.

Leave the stems on your grasses for winter interest. Remove dead stems to 4-6 inches high in early spring. Grasses can also be divided at this time. If the clump is too large and/or you would like new plants, or if the center become sparse and woody (you might need an axe!).

Be patient with some of these varieties. Remember: The first year they sleep, the second year they creep and the third year the leap!