Veseys

1. The rule of thumb for planting bulbs is: bury them about three times as deep as the diameter of the bulb. Measure planting depth from the soil surface to the shoulder of the bulb. In heavy clay soil they should go a little less deep; in sandy, porous soil they should be planted a little deeper.

2. Plant early-blooming bulbs like winter aconite, dwarf iris, snowdrops, miniature daffodils and snow crocus in a very sheltered sunny spot for earlier bloom. You’ll get the most enjoyment of these tiny gems if you place them where you see them often - by a doorway or at the base of a retaining wall.

3. If your bulbs, tricked by a late winter thaw, start poking their tips up only to have a blizzard of snow dumped on them, don’t worry. The cold and ice returns them to their dormant state until warmer weather settles in. Few blooms will be lost.

4. Learn to live with withering foliage, or camouflage it by interplanting with perennials and annuals. The leaves are the bulbs’ main source of energy for replenishing the food supply and creating the embryos of next year’s flowers. This process continues for weeks after the flowers die and is the most critical phase of the life cycle of a bulb.

5. Cut your flowers freely, just as the buds are opening. The stem tips of daffodils should be quickly seared with a match or stove flame to seal the stems. Cut flowers last longer if allowed to stand in deep water in a cool place for several hours before you arrange them.

6. Take time to cut the flower stalks after the blooms fade. This prevents the development of seed, thus conserving energy for next year’s regeneration.

Why didn't my spring bulbs (fall planted bulbs) come up or bloom?

The overall cause of a bulb not growing or not producing a bloom, but many nice leaves, is either the bud was damaged or a flower bud wasn't formed. NO bud equals NO flower. Cultural conditions can also lead to diseases or conditions that cause the leaves to be deformed or the bulb to disappear. The following may lead to no flowers or no growth:

Fertilizing & Watering: If bulbs have been fertilized or watered too much. Most bulbs prefer dry summers and a single application of bulb fertilizer in the fall. If your bulbs were planted near perennials, annuals or a lawn that you are constantly watering and fertilizing, they will not be happy.

Sun: If there wasn't enough sun last spring or they are planted in a shady area. Most spring blooming bulbs prefer full sun for 6 hours per day.

Competition: If they are in competition with other plants, such as shallow rooted trees and aggressive perennials they may be weakened.

Poor drainage: If water puddles where they are planted, they will get basal rot fungus, not grow properly and die out. Bulbs need excellent drainage.

Leaves Removed: If the leaves were cut off last season before they withered on their own. The leaves produce and store energy for next year's flowers. If they were removed too soon, the bulb cannot flower.

Need Dividing: If they have multiplied and are crowded, you may just need to divide them. This is not normally a problem in a home garden setting, but if there are scads of crowded leaves, you can try division.

Shallow Planting: They may be planted too shallow. They should be planted to a depth equal to at least three times the width of the bulb, up to 10", but at least 3" for small bulbs.

Planted Too Early You may have planted them too early last fall. If the bulb had rooted and the soil was still warm, it may have started to produce a flowerbud. Once the flowerbud emerges it will live or die depending on the current soil temperature. If it emerges when it is too cold, it dies and then next spring, no flower. Plant most fall bulbs after the soil has cooled. This is usually September in Zones 2 and 3, October in Zones 4 and 5, November in Zones 6-7 and December in Zones 8. Plant your daffodils in the early part of your fall (when leaves start to fall from the trees) to give them some extra time to root in.

Animals Pests: Squirrels, mice, deer, rabbits or other pests may have eaten or damaged the bulbs.

Winter Temperatures: If you had severe alternating temperatures during the winter, the bulbs may have been pushed out of the ground or started to grow during a mild spell and been damaged by subsequent very cold weather. A heavy winter mulch of straw, leaves or evergreen boughs helps prevent this.

Immature Bulbs: In rare cases, if bulbs are immature or too small, they may not have a developed a flower bud and so cannot bloom.

Spring Temperatures: If temperatures fluctuate severely before bloom time, flower buds may be aborted.