At Last Rose

Upon Arrival:

Once your plants arrive open the bag it came in and immerse the whole plant in water for 12-24 hours before potting or planting. The roots will re-hydrate and enable new bud growth to develop successfully.
If you are unable to plant immediately, open the box to expose the stems but do not remove the wrapping around the roots, as this preserves moisture. Store the shrubs upright in a cool, humid, dimly lit location. Before planting, remove all packaging material, including the copper twist tie, then soak the entire plant, stems and roots, in a pail of water for several hours (12-24 hours). At no time, should the roots ever be exposed to sun or wind, or be allowed to dry out. Trim off any broken roots or branches before planting.
Roses can be planted as soon as you can dig in your garden in early spring. You do not have to wait until frosts are over. They are hardy and can withstand cold temperatures. Water immediately and thoroughly upon arrival. Allow excess water to drain and store in a cool, dimly lit location.

Choosing the Site:

Roses require full sun that is at least six to eight hours a day, preferably afternoon sun. Choose an open site where breezes will blow through. This will aid in drying the foliage, preventing many fungal and viral diseases. Ideal spacing will enable plants to grow more successful with less competition for water and nutrients. Snow provides excellent insulation for even the most tender plant, so consider a spot where snow may gather naturally. The site should be well-drained. If water tends to puddle in the area, either choose a different site, or raise the bed by at least 5 cm (2 inches) by adding organic matter.

The Soil:

Roses grow best in a rich, loamy soil with sufficient drainage. Loamy soil is basically a good combination of sand, clay, organic matter, and silt. To help soil keep rich, a yearly application of top dressing consisting of well-rotted manure or kitchen compost is advised. Most plants are adaptable to a neutral soil pH of 6.8-7.2, while some require slightly higher or lower levels which are noted in each individual listing.

Pre-Plant Pruning of Bare Root Roses:

A hard pruning of bare root rose's helps to concentrate the roses energy on growing new shoots. First, prune all stems down to about 15-20cm (6-8 inches). The cuts should be made at an outward facing bud; the buds will appear as small bumps that unfurl into leaves (not the thorns!). Find a bud that is on the outside of the shrub, facing away from the center. This is where new growth will emerge, ensuring that your rose will grow outward leaving an open center. Cut just above the bud, on a slight diagonal. Now, look closely at the center of each stem, called the pith. It should be quite white or green. If it appears dark or yellow, continue pruning down to outward facing buds until white pith is reached. You may have one or more dead stems; do not worry, remove them and more energy will be put into the remaining stems. Now look for stems that may be rubbing against one another, the weaker of the two should be removed. Prune the root tips back to white tissue to encourage branching. You are now ready to soak the rose in muddy water for several hours, and then plant your new rose.

Planting:

These roses have very long growing canes with many side branches. Plant the roses 2m (6') apart. Plant hardy climbing roses in the same manner as other roses. The canes can be trained to grow upright on poles, fences, stone walls or trellises. You should tie canes to the support with a soft, flexible material that will not damage the canes.

Watering:

Most roses and shrubs benefit from receiving at least one inch of water per week during the first season. Once established, they are quite drought tolerant, but of course are more productive and healthier if watered during dry spells.

Growing:

For the first 2-3 seasons, prune only to remove deadwood. In future years you should prune repeat bloomers like ‘William Baffin’ and ‘Henry Kelsey’ in early spring when they are dormant. Hardy climbers such as these need not be removed from the trellis in the fall. Mound soil over the crown for winter protection if you are in a very cold zone. More tender climbers such as ‘Don Juan’ and ‘Golden Showers’ may be removed from the trellis (a thorny business!), laid flat and covered with soil for the winter. Alternatively they can be wrapped in burlap and stuffed with straw.

Weeding:

We recommend that you keep the soil bare or mulched around your roses. Turf grasses and weeds are heavy competitors for water, nutrients and even sunlight. These mulched borders also protect your new plants from grass-trimmer damage and will make it much easier to mow around them. These grass free areas are especially important during the first 2-3 years while the plant is becoming established. Organic mulches (shredded bark, bark nuggets, compost etc.) make weeding easier, retain moisture and look aesthetically pleasing.

Pruning:

Every time you make a cut it will affect the growth and over all health of your roses. All cuts, regardless of their reason, should be made in the same manner. Cuts should always be made at an angle, just above an outward facing bud. This directs the growth of the plant away from the center which prevents crossed and crowded branches reducing the chances disease. Most roses benefit from being pruned at least once a year. First of all, you should remove dead or dying, damaged branches, and the weaker of two stems that are rubbing against one another. This essential pruning can be done throughout the year, as damage occurs. Roses should be pruned after they have flowered in late summer. For more information about Pruning Shrubs click here.

Fall Care:

Ideally, all fallen leaves should be cleaned up that surround your roses. Destroy any diseased leaves in your waste to prevent over-wintering of fungal and viral diseases. Water heavily a few weeks before the ground freezes up, unless it has been a very wet fall. This can be done anywhere before October to December depending on where you live. You can also add an 8-inch mound of soil, compost, leaf mold, or other organic material around the base of the bush.