Peach Pearl Calla Lily

Upon Arrival:

Plant bulbs as soon as possible, once you have received your shipment. If you cannot plant right away, remove the bulbs from plastic bags and put them on trays with damp peat moss or sawdust in a cool, well-ventilated place until you have a chance to plant them. Do not let the bulbs dry out before planting. Plant outdoors once the conditions are right for your hardiness zone.

Where to Plant:

The most important rule when planting bulbs is to choose an area that is well-drained. Most bulbs will rot or deteriorate quickly where soil is constantly damp. Most bulbs thrive in full sun, or at least 5-6 sunny hours daily. Some bulbs such as fritillaria and wood hyacinths prefer filtered shade.

Planting:

Calla lilies grow best in full sun. Calla lilies should be planted in the spring after all danger of frost has passed. In cold climates it's best to wait until the soil has warmed to at least 65°F. For a head start, you can plant the rhizomes in pots indoors about a month before planting them into the garden. Dig a hole 3” to 4" deep. Set the rhizome into the hole with the “eyes” (growing tips) facing up. In the garden, you can space calla lilies about 6” apart on center. In containers they look best planted more closely (4" on center). Cover the rhizome with soil and water lightly. As with most plants, calla lilies should be grown in well-drained soil. If you are planting them in containers, use a quality growing mix rather than garden soil.

Growing:

When the rhizomes are first planted, it’s important to water sparingly. Once the plants have a few leaves, you can begin watering more generously. During the growing season, calla lilies appreciate a monthly dose of liquid fertilizer. This is especially important when they are grown in containers.

Overwintering:

If want to try saving your calla lilies for next year, here's what to do. Fertilize the plants throughout the growing season. Cut off the flower stems as soon as the blooms fade. This will prevent the plants from setting seed and help conserve energy for next year’s flowers. Continue fertilizing until the foliage begins to yellow. After the leaves have died back, or after the first frost, dig up the rhizomes and trim off the foliage, leaving an inch or two of stem attached. Let the rhizomes cure in a warm, dry place for several days and then put them into a box with barely damp peat moss. Store the box in a dark place at 50-60°F. Check once or twice during the winter to make sure the rhizomes are not too moist (rotting) or too dry (shriveling). Replant in spring.