Spring Planting: this product will be shipped late April through May according to your hardiness zone.
Rosa. Winner of SIX International Rose Awards! You would expect an award winning rose to be disease resistant, winter hardy and a reliable rebloomer, but lets talk about these colour-changing flowers! When they first open, the single flowers are a rich, sunny yellow with a bright orange center. As the flowers mature they soften to a light, primrose yellow with a peachy center and finally the flowers are pure white with rose-pink centers. When you first see the three colours on one shrub it seems impossible, but you will get used to it quickly and it may become your new favourite. Height 3-4 feet. 1 litre pot.
Sold as: Pkg of 1
Once your plants arrive open the bag it came in and immerse the whole plant in water for 12-24 hours before potting or planting. The roots will re-hydrate and enable new bud growth to develop successfully.
If you are unable to plant immediately, open the box to expose the stems but do not remove the wrapping around the roots, as this preserves moisture. Store the shrubs upright in a cool, humid, dimly lit location. Before planting, remove all packaging material, including the copper twist tie, then soak the entire plant, stems and roots, in a pail of water for several hours (12-24 hours). At no time, should the roots ever be exposed to sun or wind, or be allowed to dry out. Trim off any broken roots or branches before planting.
Roses can be planted as soon as you can dig in your garden in early spring. You do not have to wait until frosts are over. They are hardy and can withstand cold temperatures. Water immediately and thoroughly upon arrival. Allow excess water to drain and store in a cool, dimly lit location.
Choosing the Site:
Roses require full sun that is at least six to eight hours a day, preferably afternoon sun. Choose an open site where breezes will blow through. This will aid in drying the foliage, preventing many fungal and viral diseases. Ideal spacing will enable plants to grow more successful with less competition for water and nutrients. Snow provides excellent insulation for even the most tender plant, so consider a spot where snow may gather naturally. The site should be well-drained. If water tends to puddle in the area, either choose a different site, or raise the bed by at least 5 cm (2 inches) by adding organic matter.
Roses grow best in a rich, loamy soil with sufficient drainage. Loamy soil is basically a good combination of sand, clay, organic matter, and silt. To help soil keep rich, a yearly application of top dressing consisting of well-rotted manure or kitchen compost is advised. Most plants are adaptable to a neutral soil pH of 6.8-7.2, while some require slightly higher or lower levels which are noted in each individual listing.
Pre-Plant Pruning of Bare Root Roses:
A hard pruning of bare root rose's helps to concentrate the roses energy on growing new shoots. First, prune all stems down to about 15-20cm (6-8 inches). The cuts should be made at an outward facing bud; the buds will appear as small bumps that unfurl into leaves (not the thorns!). Find a bud that is on the outside of the shrub, facing away from the center. This is where new growth will emerge, ensuring that your rose will grow outward leaving an open center. Cut just above the bud, on a slight diagonal. Now, look closely at the center of each stem, called the pith. It should be quite white or green. If it appears dark or yellow, continue pruning down to outward facing buds until white pith is reached. You may have one or more dead stems; do not worry, remove them and more energy will be put into the remaining stems. Now look for stems that may be rubbing against one another, the weaker of the two should be removed. Prune the root tips back to white tissue to encourage branching. You are now ready to soak the rose in muddy water for several hours, and then plant your new rose.
Select a sunny location to plant your rose. The soil should also be rich and drain well. If water is still standing after four to five hours, the soil does not drain well. Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the container housing your rose. The hole should be as deep as the container. Mix in some organic matter with the soil from the hole. A handful of bone meal will aid in root development. Lay a stick across the hole so you will know exactly where the surface level will be. Make a small mound of soil on which to sit the roots while ensuring they are spread out. Comb out the roots with your fingers to keep them from crossing. Place the shrub or rose so that the crown is about an inch below soil level. This is approximate, the general rule is that the harsher the climate, the deeper the crown should be planted.
Fill the hole about 2⁄3 full. Pack down soil with your feet, and water. After water has soaked in, fill hole and repeat packing and watering. This will ensure that there are no air pockets around the roots. Create a ‘catch-basin’ around the edge of the hole to catch water. Water again the following day with a water-soluble 10-52-10 fertilizer (the high middle number aids in root development), or water with manure or compost tea. You may want to mulch halfway up the stems for the first couple of weeks to prevent drying out. Water and fertilize this way once a week for the next three weeks.
Most roses and shrubs benefit from receiving at least one inch of water per week during the first season. Once established, they are quite drought tolerant, but of course are more productive and healthier if watered during dry spells.
Though this rose has proven itself resistant to powdery mildew and black spot, proper care and siting is important. Plant where it will get at least six - and ideally, eight or more - hours of bright sun each day. Avoid wetting the leaves when you water, or if you have a sprinkler system, adjust the head so that it waters the soil rather than the plant.
We recommend that you keep the soil bare or mulched around your roses. Turf grasses and weeds are heavy competitors for water, nutrients and even sunlight. These mulched borders also protect your new plants from grass-trimmer damage and will make it much easier to mow around them. These grass free areas are especially important during the first 2-3 years while the plant is becoming established. Organic mulches (shredded bark, bark nuggets, compost etc.) make weeding easier, retain moisture and look aesthetically pleasing.
This rose does not need deadheading (i.e., there's no need to remove old flowers) in order to keep blooming. As for pruning, it's a good idea to cut the whole plant back by about half to one-third its total height in early spring - this removes any thinner buds at the top of the plant, ensuring that the growth for the year comes from the thicker buds further down the stems. Don't sweat it too much - just cut back the stems above where a nice, big bud is emerging.
For more information about Pruning Shrubs click here
Ideally, all fallen leaves should be cleaned up that surround your roses. Destroy any diseased leaves in your waste to prevent over-wintering of fungal and viral diseases. Water heavily a few weeks before the ground freezes up, unless it has been a very wet fall. This can be done anywhere before October to December depending on where you live. You can also add an 8-inch mound of soil, compost, leaf mold, or other organic material around the base of the bush.