Boyne Raspberry

Important! Upon Arrival:

Keep moist and cool. Fruits and berries are shipped in dormant form so they can be transplanted out once the soil can be worked in the spring. Light frosts will not damage the plants as they are in the resting stage. If you are unable to plant immediately, the plants can be stored for a short period of time. This should be a dark, cool (but not freezing) location such as an unheated garage, fridge or a cold cellar. They should also be kept moist, but not wet, until they are planted.

Site and Soil Preparation:

Raspberries grow best on deep, sandy-loam soils, in a sunny location, well supplied with organic matter. Heavy silts and clay soils should be avoided because of poor growth and lower yields. Good drainage and an adequate supply of moisture are essential. Although the pH of the soil is not that critical, a range of 5.8 to 6.5 is considered optimum. Select a site where tomatoes, potatoes, peppers or eggplants have not been grown; raspberries are susceptible to soil-borne diseases that these crops may carry. Also, a planting should not follow directly after a sod but rather the planting should follow a cultivated or cover crop. If the soil lacks organic matter work 1 inch or more of organic residues such as lawn clippings, rotten leaves, or well rotted manure into the top 4 to 6 inches of soil. Before planting mix about 3 pounds of 10-10-10 or equivalent fertilizer per 100 square feet of soil 1 week prior to planting.
Soils should be prepared prior to planting; thoroughly till the soil and eliminate perennial weed problems. For large plantings it is advisable to have the soil pH tested and fertilizer applications should be based on recommendations. Soil fumigation is highly recommended for nematode control as it has been shown that nematodes vector raspberry viruses. Organic matter that is worked into the soil provides plant food, improves the physical properties of the soil, and increases the water-holding capacity. If the soil is acidic, apply agricultural limestone prior to planting to raise the soil pH.
Take advantage of a windbreak if possible. Cold winter winds dry out the canes and under extreme conditions kill them. Canes too close to a windbreak,
however, may be damaged by large snowdrifts.

Planting:

Start with grass and weed free soil. Set bare root plants 1-2 inches deeper than the soil line on the stem. Plant 2 ft apart with 8-10 ft between rows. At this spacing 10 plants will fill 20 feet of row space. A trellis to hold canes upright is strongly recommended. Water plants thoroughly after planting. Plants need about 1 – 2″ of water a week from bloom time to end of harvest. Plants should also be watered during prolonged dry periods after harvest as well. When watering, add enough water to wet the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches.

Growing:

During the growing season, weed regularly but not more than 3 inches deep because the root system is quite shallow. Mulching during establishment can help control weeds. The important fact to remember is that the raspberry is a shallow rooted plant. Discontinue cultivation early in September so that the canes may properly mature prior to cold weather. We suggest all raspberries be supported by a trellis.

Newly set raspberry plants, planted in a good soil, will require very little fertilizer during the first growing season. Commercial fertilizer will not be required if a good layer of compost is annually applied after the growing season (late October) or in the spring. The compost will also serve to control weeds and conserve moisture in summer, which are keys to good production. Alternative mulches such as sawdust or wood chips, applied over moist soil to a depth of 10 cm, will be beneficial as long as spring fertilization is not neglected.

Pruning:

Remove fruiting canes at the end of harvest. Make cuts close to the ground, also thin new shoots at this time, leaving 3 or 4 of the sturdiest canes per foot of row.
Thin in late winter or early spring before they start to grow. Remove all weak canes and thin the strong canes so they are 4-6 inches apart over the width of the row; narrow rows if necessary to 15-18 inches wide.

Pest and Disease Control:

A good measure of insect and disease control can be attained through proper pruning and sanitation. The removal and disposal of old canes following harvesting removes a primary source of pests and improves air circulation and growth of the new canes. Prune to 6-8 canes per stool, or 10-12 canes per yard (3 feet) of hedgerow.