Fragrant Garden Collection
Spring Planting: we begin shipping in late April through May beginning with the warmest hardiness zones, so you receive your products at the proper time for planting.
For many gardeners, the smells associated with certain flowers can evoke powerful memories and is one of the many rewards for time spent digging in the dirt. This collection features some of our very favourite fragrant varieties that we feel every garden should include. Requires approximately 96 sq. ft.
Sold as: Pkg of 7
Upon Arrival: It is a good idea to soak any bare-root perennials in water for a few hours, but not more then a day, before planting. Add organic matter to the area and provide good drainage unless the plant variety enjoys wet roots. Unless otherwise specified, bare-root perennials are usually planted with the crown (where the shoots meet the roots) an inch below the soil surface. Firm soil gently to eliminate air pockets and water in well. Mark the area clearly since it may be awhile before the plant shows itself.
Planting Abelia: Dig a hole that is about 6 inches deeper and wider than the roots themselves, suited to the shape of the roots. Sometimes roots will be growing only in one direction, so dig an oval-shaped hole to suit. Dig a round hole if roots are spreading in all directions. Mix in some organic matter with the soil from the hole. A handful of bone meal will aid in root development. Lay a stick across the hole so you will know exactly where the surface level will be. Make a small mound of soil on which to sit the roots while ensuring they are spread out. Comb out the roots with your fingers to keep them from crossing. Place the shrub or tree so that the crown is about an inch below soil level. This is approximate, the general rule is that the harsher the climate, the deeper the crown should be planted. Fill the hole about 2⁄3 full. Pack down soil with your feet, and water. After water has soaked in, fill hole and repeat packing and watering. This will ensure that there are no air pockets around the roots. Create a ‘catch-basin’ around the edge of the hole to catch water. Water again the following day with a water-soluble 10-52-10 fertilizer (the high middle number aids in root development), or water with manure or compost tea. You may want to mulch halfway up the stems for the first couple of weeks to prevent drying out. Water and fertilize this way once a week for the next three weeks.
Planting Phlox: If roots appear dry it is helpful to soak them in warm water for a few hours to overnight before planting.Set the plants 12"-15" apart with growing tips 1" below soil surface. They need full sun and organically enriched soil and benefit greatly from monthly fertilizing. They will form sizable clumps which can be divided every 3 years.Cut off spent flowers to extend the bloom time. Water during dry periods. Taller varieties may need staking. Note: To prevent powdery mildew, provide good air circulation, keep plants healthy, and use wettable sulfur at the first sign of infection.
Planting Peony: Peonies prefer soil that provides average moisture, but is not water logged. Keep in mind that your peonies will live for years, so adding nutrients in the form of compost to the soil at planting time is a good idea. Site your peonies where they will receive full sun to very light shade. While peonies will survive in moderate shade they will not bloom as well and stems will not be as strong as when they are located in sunnier sites. Bareroot plants are easy to handle and settle in quickly. Tuck your peony roots in the ground with the tips of the roots pointing downwards and the "eyes" or growing points 1/2" to 2" below soil level. Plant on the deep end of this range in cold zones and on the shallow end of this range in warmer areas. If planted deeper, the roots will grow and produce foliage but the flower production will be limited. Space plants 2 to 3 feet apart to allow for mature size. After planting, water generously, soaking the soil to settle it around the root. Fll root growth helps anchor the plants for the future. Foliage sprouts will appear in the spring and will be immediately identifiable as they are bright red or pink and look like colorful asparagus shoots. These sprouts will grow and change to green as they lengthen and develop leaves. Flower buds will follow although buds don't always form the first spring.
Planting Bee Balm: It is a good idea to soak any bare-root perennials in water for a few hours, but not more then a day, before planting. Add organic matter to the area and provide good drainage unless the plant variety enjoys wet roots. Unless otherwise specified, bare-root perennials are usually planted with the crown (where the shoots meet the roots) an inch below the soil surface. Firm soil gently to eliminate air pockets and water in well. Mark the area clearly since it may be awhile before the plant shows itself. Plant with crowns at soil level, 12 inches apart. Prefers full sun or light shade. Beebalm forms large clumps once established and can be divided in early spring. Cut leaves to the ground when they begin to yellow.
Planting Alstroemeria: Also known as Peruvian Lily. Plant roots 8" below soil surface, or 4-6" deep in warmer climates. Alstromeria is susceptible to root rot, cultivate to a depth of 15 inches to avoid this. Mulch in early winter and do not disturb roots. Handle the tuberous roots gently as they can be brittle. Space 12" apart. Prefers full sun to partial shade and well drained, organic, moist soil. Blooms June to September. Grow against a warm wall and provide winter mulch where marginally hardy (Zone 5). Where not hardy dig and store roots in moist potting mix and store at 2-5°C.
Planting Lily of the Valley: Soak pips in warm water for 2-3 hours before planting. Plant the rhizomes (pips) on their sides, 1"-2" deep and 4"-6" apart in very early spring or fall. Grow in rich, well-drianed soil; full to part shade. Note: Lily of the Valley can be difficult to establish in some areas. It often is more successful to plant the pips (5 per 8" pot) in pots of potting soil and get them growing before planting outside in late spring. Mulch heavily in fall with compost. After a few years, if bloom becomes sparse, lift some of the pips and divide them.